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ACCOMPANYING IMAGES

Accompanying images were taken by Sandra Burn White, a freelance photographer whose work forms an essential backdrop to John Rozentals' travel stories. She has also built an extensive album of images which are available for purchase and can be perused on her site: www.sandraburnwhite.com.au

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Newington Armory historic train — Sydney NSW

Story: JOHN ROZENTALS

Images: SANDRA BURN WHITE

Up until the 2000 Olympics — and the accompanying wholesale redevelopment of a significant swathe of inner-western Sydney from antiquated industrial to parkland, sporting fields and modern residential — very few locals had even heard of the Newington Armory yet alone realised the importance of its role over more than a century.

“It was quite a well kept secret,” said Ian Macdonald, during a break on one of his regular rail tours around the precinct.

And that’s just as well, because what was there would have been an extremely attractive target for any of the country’s enemies, especially during World War Two, when the British, American and Australian navies kept significant arsenals there.

The armory’s story began in 1882 when the Government resumed nearly 90 hectares of land, much of it mudflats and mangroves, on the southern side of the Parramatta River between Silverwater and Homebush Bay.

Stone seawalls, docks and numerous fortified buildings were constructed, as well as a network of narrow-gauge rail lines that linked various parts of Sydney’s new powder magazine.

In 1921, management of the site was handed to the Royal Australian Navy and, at its peak, the facility occupied nearly 260 hectares and stretched from the river to Parramatta Road.

A large part of the site was transformed into the 2000 Olympics athletes’ village (now the suburb of Newington) while the rest has largely become parkland and remains a significant historic site under management of the Sydney Olympic Park Authority.

Many of the buildings have been converted into artists’ spaces and a large gallery. One has become a cinema, another an educational centre focusing on the wetlands’ birdlife. There’s a waterfront restaurant, bike-hire facilities, a riverside stage and backpacker-style accommodation.

And there’s still that network of rail lines, which have become something of a passion for Ian Macdonald, a steam-buff and licensed engine-driver still employed for some of his time by NSW State Rail.

He’s converted one of the trains originally used for carting explosives into a passenger vehicle that he uses to provide the armory experience to a bevy of keen participants on the first and third Sundays of every month.

With guide Lorraine Watson delivering an interesting-enough commentary on the history of the armory — and a quite fascinating tour of a shed full of largely WW2 torpedos, missiles and other assorted explosive devices — it’s a worthwhile and entertaining way to spend a couple of hours.

The cost of the Heritage Railway Discovery Tour is $15 per adult ($12 concession, $7.50 children, under fives free if seated on an adult’s lap). Hours of departure vary according to time of year. On 16 May, there will be departures from Newington Armory Wharf at 10.30am, 12.30pm and 2.30pm.

For bookings and further information, call 02 9714 7888, email info@sydneyolympicpark.com.au or visit www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au.

FIVE OTHER THINGS TO DO AT NEWINGTON ARMORY

Eat — There’s a deal of choice in this regard, starting with a picnic on one of the extensive grassed areas. There are also sheltered eating areas along the waterfront, with free gas-fired barbecues. The Armory Wharf Café has both a canteen for quick snacks and a more formal fully licensed restaurant right on the edge of the Parramatta River. Visit www.armorywharfcafe.com.

Take in some art — The Armory Gallery occupies the largest of the old buildings and is one of Sydney’s largest public exhibition spaces. The next exhibition, which will be open every weekend from 15 May to 20 June, is Memory Flows: Rivers, Creeks and the Great Artesian Basin, an interdisciplinary collaboration by artists sharing a common concern for the environment. The Armory’s buildings are also home to a range of resident artists and craftspeople, who regularly open their spaces to the public for Meet the Artists events. Several works from Bondi’s famous Sculpture by the Sea have been created at the Armory and are on display there until the end of the year. For details, visit www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au.

Walk and cycle — The Armory offers a network of trails taking in historical artefacts and buildings, wetlands, bush and riverfront. Cycle hire is available.

Enjoy a free movie at The Armory Theatre — Cinewest Cinémathèque is holding its third annual Masters of Cinema series, this year featuring the work of Japan’s Akira Kurasawa and Italy’s Federico Fellini. Screenings are from 2–4pm on the last Sunday of the month. Next up is Kurasawa’s Sanjuro (1962) on 30 May. Visit www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au or www.cinewest.org.au for details.

Learn to ride a Segway — One of those two-wheeled, electric-powered contraptions that look impossible but are apparently quite easy to control. You can rent one for a trial run or join a Segway-based discovery tour of the Newington Armory site. More advanced Segway adventures are also available. Visit www.segwaytours.com.au.